|
Information
We understand that keeping up to date with all the information on keeping your pet, can be a bit baffling! Here we have all sorts of up to date information on care, feeding, behaviour and common problems.
Click on the links at the top of the page for a quick jump to the paragraph. |
|
|
Dogs
Cats
Rabbits
General
|
|
|
|
DOGS
Cars, dogs in
Harnesses are available at the clinic which attach to the seatbelts in your car, to keep your dog secure-these help prevent your dog being thrown about in the event of an accident or under heavy braking (and possibly injuring yourself if they hit you!). Seatbelts also stop dogs from jumping about the car, and distracting the driver.
Remember that dogs die in hot cars! Temperatures rise rapidly in parked cars, so don't leave your dog unattended in the car. Leaving windows open a couple of inches is not adequate. Take care to ensure that young children don't shut your dog in the car at home also (it happens!).
Dental care, dogs
One of the most common conditions we see in the surgery is periodontal (gum) disease. Plaque and tartar build up on the teeth, causing inflammation of the gums (gingivitis). Gingivitis is painful and results eventually in periodontal disease and tooth loss.
Make it a part of your healthcare routine for your dog to look after his/her teeth. The most ideal situation is for you to brush the teeth 3-4 times a week, and to give your dog beef hide chews or dental biscuits to chew on. Regularly inspect your dog's teeth - lift the gums and look at all the teeth, especially those at the back. If you think they need attention, see the vet - before periodontal disease becomes so advanced that we cannot save the tooth. Tooth care is VERY important for the health of your dog - bacteria can enter the bloodstream through damaged gums and set up infections in the heart, liver or kidneys.
Elderly dogs with bad teeth requiring urgent attention present more anaesthetic risk - so look after your dog's teeth - right from the start!
Desexing, dogs
FEMALES: Most bitches reach puberty when they are 6 months old - this is variable however and larger breeds can take longer. The first signs seen when the bitch comes into 'heat' are swelling of the vulva and a blood stained discharge - this usually lasts about a week. The discharge then becomes straw coloured during the second week and the bitch will accept being mated by a dog. In unmated bitches the "heat" then subsides and the next heat will usually be seen in around 6 months time (also variable). The whole cycle takes about 3 weeks.
Complications in unspayed bitches can include:
False pregnancy: 1-2 months after the heat the bitch may produce milk and undergo "nest-building" behaviour.
Pyometra: an accumulation of large amounts of pus in the uterus, typically 1-2 months after heat. This is extremely serious and life threatening due to the toxaemia produced. Although usually seen in older bitches, we have seen it in bitches at their first season. The most successful treatment is surgical removal of the uterus and its contents - note this is done when the bitch is seriously ill and presents a large risk. Other treatments are now available, though are expensive.
Mammary Tumours: Growths in the mammary tissue ("breast cancer"). Some of these tumours can be malignant (i.e. spread to other parts of body) hence are life threatening. Bitches spayed early in life have a significantly reduced chance of developing tumours.
Unwanted pregnancy: If an unwanted mating occurs ring us within 1-2 days if you want to take steps to avoid a pregnancy.
We can spay your bitch from around 5-6 months of age, but we will not operate while they are in heat.
MALES: Castration of males can be performed any time, and is normally done around 6 months of age. Castration tends to reduce aggression toward other dogs (especially males), and prevents roaming associated with seeking out bitches in heat.
Castration also prevents many health problems we see in older dogs - e.g. Prostate hypertrophy/testicular tumours/perineal hernias.
Neutered animals (male and female) have reduced metabolic requirements and so to avoid weight gain, should have their diets adjusted accordingly.
Dogs – Web Links
New Zealand Kennel Club Breed clubs, breeders and contact details
All about safety with dogs - good advice on keeping children safe around dogs (both your own and others).
Christchurch City Council Animal Control - For details on dog exercise areas, animal control, the Christchurch Animal Shelter, Dangerous Dogs, Dog registration, and lots more.
Registration – City Council Service centre contacts. Download application forms. Update your details.
Dog Training – details of training clubs throughout New Zealand.
Exercise, dogs
Until your pup has completed his course of vaccinations, you should not exercise him in public parks or on beaches or walkways which potentially unvaccinated dogs may use. Parvovirus can survive in the environment for months.
Do not over exercise your pup until s/he is fully grown as this may damage developing cartilage in joints and cause long-term problems - this is especially important in the larger, heavier breeds. Ask for further advice if you are unsure.
Feeding, dogs
We recommend you feed your puppy on a premium growth formula. These provide the correct levels of all nutrients and minerals for growth (especially important for bone growth).
Hills, Eukanuba and Royal Canin manufacture quality foods which meet these requirements.
The majority of your pup's diet should consist of quality puppy food but "extras" such as table leftovers and treats are all OK too, in small quantities.
Don't forget to provide lots of tasty things to chew on (eg rawhide bones), as your pup will be getting lots of new teeth through over the first few months.
If giving your pup bones, only feed large bones that cannot be splintered up or swallowed.
Always provide plenty of cool fresh water.
Pups are normally fed on puppy diets until they are 12 months old, then they are changed onto Adult Maintenance Formulas.
Be aware that some ‘human’ foods and products are potentially poisonous to dogs – e.g. chocolate, grapes, raisins, onions (including onion powder in gravy mixes), rising bread dough, mouldy foods (we’ve seen this with fridge “throwouts” - if you wouldn’t eat it yourself, don’t give it to your dog), tobacco products, human medications. Puppies will hoover up anything you leave lying around, with potentially dangerous side effects – learn to put them away!
Fleas, dogs
Fleas not only cause irritation and scratching, but can result in serious allergies (from flea bites) with skin disease in some animals.
We have products which are safe to use on 2 day old puppies.
We recommend control programmes to prevent not only pruritis (itching) and tapeworm in pets, but also to prevent infections with the flea-borne bacterial pathogens. Effective control is important to keep your pet comfortable.
Just as important is the safety margin of the chemical you use on your pet.
Products such as Advantage, Frontline Plus and Prac-tic have very high safety margins and are also highly effective against fleas. Unless you are certain that a product is safe, please don’t put it on your pet! There are still products for sale which have low safety margins and can result in poisonings in susceptible animals or if dosed incorrectly. The team at the clinic can advise you whether the product you have is safe or not – please ask!
Insurance
We recommend pet insurance as a way of ensuring you have the financial security your pet needs in the event of accident or illness. We do not however recommend one company over another, and suggest that you contact all of them and compare their policies and prices to make your decision. A range of policies is available from which you can choose the level of cover needed. Be aware that they are not ‘unlimited’ in their cover (in the same way that human medical insurance works), and each condition may have limits on the claim allowed.
Ellenco Enterprizes Ltd is a Christchurch based insurance company offering comprehensive medical cover for your pet, and is probably the company we have the most experience with.
Contact Ellenco on 03 332 3648 or 0800 738 752, or check their website at: www.pet-insurance.co.nz
Pet Plan insurance is now also available in New Zealand and can be contacted at www.petplan.net.nz or 0800 255 426. Although this company is new in NZ it is well established in the UK.
Pet Medicare is another company offering pet insurance. They can be contacted on 0800 738 633.
Microchipping
A microchip is a small implant placed under the skin, which will transmit an identification number to a scanner device.
The number is unique to your dog/cat and along with your details including your contact phone numbers; it is placed on a database which we can access to find owners of lost dogs/cats.
We recommend microchipping as a safe, inexpensive, humane and effective method of permanently identifying your dog or cat.
Microchipping puppies is now a legal requirement of owning a dog. Once your pet has been microchipped you need to ensure that your details are recorded with your pet’s microchip number on the New Zealand Companion Animal Database ( www.animalregister.co.nz ); and for dogs, also on the Christchurch City Council database (which is done when you register your dog with the Council).
It is vitally important that you then keep your details up to date, so in the event that your pet is lost or injured, we can contact you straight away.
Puppies and babies
We frequently receive requests for advice and help on either introducing a new puppy into a house with a baby, or on what steps need to be taken when there is a baby expected in a house where there is a dog already in the family.
Too often people leave it too late to ask for help - until they realise the dog is not coping, or has attacked the children. Too many dogs still get put to sleep because of their behaviour around children. We can provide a leaflet entitled: "Guide to a successful relationship between your new baby and the family dog". Please ask for a copy - do it as soon as you are aware that there will be a new baby in the house, and begin to prepare your beloved pet. Do not leave it until the new baby arrives. It is important that your dog associates the new baby with as few disruptions as possible.
And remember:
NEVER leave any baby or child unattended with ANY dog.
Make sure also that your dog cannot harm other people's children while out walking. Teach your children how to behave around other peoples dogs.
Let's give dogs some good press!
Puppy playschool
This is a great way to learn about basic obedience, house training, caring for your dog, and dealing with problems.
Run by Colleen Fry and Anne Benson - NZQA Certified Dog Trainers.
This is a great chance for your pup to socialise with other pups, (and for you to meet other dog owners).
For pups 8 to 16 weeks of age, with current vaccinations.
Contact Anne or Colleen directly for bookings: Telephone: 328 7440 (Colleen), or 388 0951 (Anne).
Registration, dogs
You need to register your puppy with the Christchurch City Council and microchip him/her when s/he reaches 3 months of age.
There is an annual registration fee, and you will be issued with a new disc for your dog's collar each year.
Contact the Council directly to arrange this - you can use the link to the City Council website to arrange this also. Registration
Slug bait and Rat Bait poisonings, dogs
We still see poisonings each year when dogs eat slug bait, intended for eliminating slugs and snails from the home garden. Poisonings usually occur when the dog gets hold of the whole box of slugbait, rather than a few pellets sprinkled in the garden, so take extreme care where you store the box - to a dog it is just like a box of muesli, and they will eat the lot! Most slug baits claim to have pet deterrents coated on them to stop your dog eating them - they do not work and the dog will eat them regardless. One unusual case was a Labrador who followed the owner while gardening eating small amounts on a regular basis, rather than one large amount. She was frequently severely lethargic and off colour until the owners identified the cause.
Ingestion of a larger dose, results in rapid deterioration of the pet and they begin to seizure, and will die if they don't receive veterinary treatment. If noticed early enough it will help if you can make your dog vomit, or get it to the clinic quickly enough so that we can do this.
There is currently only one pet-safe slugbait on the market in New Zealand and it is called QUASH.
ALL Rat/Mouse poisons are extremely toxic to dogs (and cats) – these work by preventing blood from clotting, and stay in the body for up to a month after ingestion – so could cause a fatal haemorrhage at any time during that time. The best action to take is to make the animal vomit immediately after eating the poison (get him to the vet straight away for this!), and to start administering Vitamin K therapy. Make sure if you are putting these poisons around your house, that your pets absolutely cannot get them!!
Vaccinations, dogs, pups and adult
Vaccinations are required to protect your dog from serious and potentially fatal diseases.
If you intend to put your dog into kennels whilst on holidays, it is mandatory that s/he is fully vaccinated.
We use the Nobivac range of vaccines at the clinic.
The normal vaccination regime for puppies is:
1st vaccination at 6-8 weeks of age against: canine distemper, canine hepatitis, and canine parvovirus (DHP).
2nd vaccination 3-4 weeks later: repeat of the 1st DHP vaccination, plus an intra-nasal Kennel Cough (KC) vaccine (a few drops down the pup's nose).
Provided the 2nd vaccination is given at or after 12 weeks of age, no further vaccinations are required (otherwise we will advise a third injection).
Vaccinations finish by 12 weeks of age, so you can get your pup out and about as quickly as possible.
If your pup starts vaccinations at a different age your vet will advise you on an appropriate course to ensure complete protection.
Thereafter, booster vaccinations are required to maintain high levels of immunity. The first one will be given 12 months after the completion of the puppy course. This will cover DHP (distemper, hepatitis, and parvovirus) and KC (Kennel Cough). The DHP vaccine is then given once every THREE years, and the KC vaccine once yearly. Be aware that there are some boarding kennels which (despite the vaccine company’s research backing up their extended license on the DHP vaccine) still insist on 2-yearly boosters, rather than 3-yearly. Please advise us of the kennels you intend to use to avoid getting caught out by this.
We have recently seen a much larger number of pups coming into the clinic suffering from parvovirus, and a large kennel cough outbreak locally - once again reinforcing the importance of vaccination in preventing disease.
Worming, dogs
Puppies are normally born infected with roundworms, or become infected via their mother's milk. It is important to ensure your puppy is treated for worms as infected pups may show symptoms of coughing, vomiting, constipation, diarrhoea or weight loss.
Worm eggs are excreted in dog faeces and provide a source of infection for humans particularly children. Even if you do not have children yourself consider the risk of children playing in parks where your dog defacates - always clean up after your dog, and worm him regularly.
Swallowing fleas while grooming infects your dog with tapeworm so effective worm control also includes flea control.
All flea and worm product dosages depend on the weight of the animal -you are welcome to drop in and weigh your animal regularly.
We recommend you begin worming your pup at 3-4 weeks of age, repeating the dose every 2 weeks until they are 12 weeks old. Then worm once monthly until the pup is 6 months old.
Once dogs are 6 months old they should be wormed with a good quality, broad spectrum wormer once every 3 months. We stock quality worm tablets at the clinic, and you can weigh your dog while there to ensure s/he gets the correct dose.
CATS
New Zealand Cat Fancy - cat clubs and breeders/cats and kittens for sale
Holiday accommodation - www.catsatthevets.co.nz
Dental care, cats
One of the most common conditions we see in the surgery is periodontal (gum) disease. Plaque and tartar build up on the teeth, causing inflammation of the gums (gingivitis). Gingivitis is painful and results eventually in periodontal disease and tooth loss.
Make it a part of your healthcare routine for your cat to look after his/her teeth. The ideal situation is for you to brush the teeth 3-4 times a week (although this is difficult) or to give your cat biscuits (e.g. Royal Canin Dental or Hills Oral Care) to chew on.
Regularly inspect your cat's teeth - lift the gums and look at all the teeth, especially those at the back. If you think they need attention, see the vet - before periodontal disease becomes so advanced that we cannot save the tooth.
Tooth care is VERY important for the health of your cat - bacteria can enter the bloodstream through damaged gums and set up infections in the heart, liver or kidneys. Poor teeth contribute to chronic kidney failure in cats. Elderly cats with bad teeth requiring urgent attention present more anaesthetic risk - so look after your cat's teeth - right from the start!
Desexing, cats
If you are not wishing to breed from your cat, s/he can be neutered from 5-6 months of age.
The operation, for both males and females, is done under general anaesthetic and requires staying a full day at the clinic to allow time to recover from the anaesthetic, before going home in the evening.
Castration in males involves removal of both testicles, while spaying a female cat involves removing both ovaries and the uterus. The operation takes longer in the female, and usually requires them to come back to the surgery after about 10 days to have sutures removed. The males will not have sutures.
Spaying female cats reduces the number of unwanted kittens-it is an old-wives-tale that female cats make better pets if they've had a litter-they make lovely pets regardless.
Unwanted kittens become strays that prey on native wildlife, and produce more unwanted kittens. Consider what you will do with the kittens produced before you consider allowing your cat to have a litter.
Neutering males reduces their urge to wander and to spray and mark their territory with urine. They get into less fights, so decrease their chances of contracting diseases such as FIV (cat Aids) and Feline Leukaemia, transmitted by cat bites.
Feeding, cats
We recommend you feed your kitten on a premium Growth Formula. These foods provide the correct levels of all nutrients and minerals for growth (especially important for bone growth). We stock quality foods which meet these requirements.
Kittens need to be on a Growth Formula until they reach one year old (and then on to an Adult Maintenance Formula). Supplements are not required with these diets.
Because some cats have intolerance to cow's milk (causing diarrhoea) we do not recommend giving these cats milk - water is sufficient.
FeLV infection and vaccination (Feline Leukaemia Virus)
Feline leukemia virus infection (FeLV), a retrovirus, can be transmitted several ways: by the saliva of infected cats contaminating the eye, mouth, and nose membranes of non-infected cats via licking, by passing infected blood to non-infected cats, or from mother to developing kittens during pregnancy.
Most infected cats eliminate the virus and become immune. In those cats that do not develop immunity, the virus spreads to the bone marrow.
Proliferative (lymphoma cancer) and degenerative diseases may occur in any of the tissues invaded by the virus, or the virus may be indirectly responsible for other illnesses because of its immunosuppressive effect. A large percentage of the cats that are exposed to the virus will have latent (hidden) infections and will be capable of transmitting the disease in saliva, tears, and urine. Some of these latent carriers will become clinically ill when stressed. 85% of cats infected with the virus will die within 3 years of contracting it.
Although the virus still exists in a relatively small number of NZ cats you should discuss the risks and benefits of a test and vaccinate program with your vet.
FIV Vaccine – protection against cat AIDS
The Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (a viral infection that attacks the immune system of cats) has become widely spread around the world since it was first identified in 1986. It is continuingly on the rise here in New Zealand and has become a very common diagnosis in ailing cats.
As most cats are allowed to roam outdoors in our country the disease has a higher chance to spread than in housed cats. Transfer is by cat bites and initially may cause an episode with fever and enlarged lymph nodes. Then usually no symptoms may be seen for several years but the cat will be infectious already to other cats during this period. Eventually infected cats will become clinically symptomatic and will die from various diseases resulting from the virus’ immunosuppressive action, e.g. lymphosarcoma, a form of cancer, and even cat flu.
A vaccine is now available to prevent cats from becoming infected with the FIV Virus.
It can be incorporated into your annual vaccination program but requires 3 initial doses (2 weeks apart) to become effective.
We also recommend those cats that are going to be entered into the FIV vaccination program to be tested for the virus first. We can perform the test at the clinic at the time of your first vaccination.
Fleas, cats
Fleas not only cause irritation and scratching, but can result in serious allergies (from flea bites) with skin disease (flea allergic dermatitis) in some animals.
We recommend control programmes to prevent not only pruritis (itching) and tapeworm in pets, but also to prevent infections with flea-borne bacterial pathogens.
We have products which are safe to use even on 2 day old kittens.
Effective control is important to keep your pet comfortable, and keep your home free of fleas.
Just as important is the safety margin of the chemical you use on your pet.
Products such as Advantage, Revolution, Bodygard and Frontline Plus have very high safety margins and are also highly effective against fleas.
If you use products other than these listed, please check with our staff to ensure they are safe BEFORE putting them on your pet. Some available on supermarket shelves in New Zealand are potentially toxic and can make your cat sick, or in some cases cause death. Ask first!
Ingesting fleas while grooming infects your cat with tapeworm, so regular worming is also important.
Grooming, cats
Regular grooming is important to remove loose hair, dirt and debris from your cat's coat.
Long haired cats will develop dense hair mats and knots in their coats if they are not groomed.
Hairballs form in the cat's stomach from swallowing loose hair and will result in vomiting and reduced appetite.
Special 'hairball' diets are available for cats which are prone to forming hairballs.
The fibre content in these diets is designed to gradually draw fur through the cat's intestine preventing it building up in the stomach.
We stock soft paraffin gel formulations which can be used to remove existing hairballs.
Toilet training, cats
Cats are naturally clean animals, but you do need to show a kitten where the toilet is, and encourage him/her to use it.
Provide a litter tray, filled with commercial cat litter (don't use clumping litter if your kitten is eating it, as it can cause serious digestive tract problems). Keep the tray in the same place and make sure it is cleaned regularly. Put the kitten in the tray after meals and when s/he wakes up after sleeping.
Move the tray gradually outdoors when you want your kitten to start using the garden. Punishing your kitten for going in the wrong place is useless and will confuse and stress him - positive reinforcement always works faster and more effectively than negative.
Toxoplasmosis
Toxoplasma gondii is a widely distributed protozoan parasite which infects many mammals and birds. This organism is of significance because it can cause disease in cats, dogs, sheep, goats and humans.
The cat is considered the most important host for Toxoplasma and acts as a reservoir for the disease.
Humans can become infected through eating contaminated meat, or less commonly, by ingestion of cat faecal material (e.g. on unwashed garden vegetables).
The disease causes flu-like symptoms in humans and is more severe in immune-compromised humans. The highest risk is when the disease is contracted during pregnancy.
In pregnant women previously unexposed to the organism, disease may lead to abortion or fetal abnormalities.
Hygiene is extremely important in preventing infection in pregnant women - ideally they should not be handling cat faeces or cleaning litter trays.
Wear gloves when gardening (cats defacate in the garden and infect it), wash hands well after handling raw meat, and make sure that all meat is well cooked through before eating. Wash all vegetables thoroughly before eating (especially those eaten raw - e.g. salads.)
If you are pregnant you should discuss this disease with your doctor or midwife.
DO NOT assume that you are immune from infection just because you've always had a cat.
Vaccinations, cats
Vaccinations are essential to ensure your cat is protected against some serious infectious diseases. If you intend to put your cat into a cattery when you go on holiday it is mandatory that s/he is fully vaccinated.
Kittens require 2 injections 3-4 weeks apart starting at around 8 weeks of age. Thereafter cats are given a booster injection once yearly.
Vaccination protects against:
1. Feline Upper Respiratory Disease (cat flu) - caused by feline herpes virus and feline calicivirus. Infected cats which recover often become carriers and suffer relapses when stressed.
2. Feline Enteritis - an often fatal disease, with severe diarrhoea.
3. Chlamydia - which causes chronic conjunctivitis and sneezing.
Vaccinations are also available now to protect against Feline Leukaemia Virus and Feline Immunodeficiency Virus. You should discuss these with your vet.
Worming, cats
Cats and kittens are commonly affected by roundworms and tapeworms.
Young cats and hunters are most at risk.
Kittens get infected with roundworms through their mother's milk, and then as they mature, from grooming and eating rodents, insects, and birds. Roundworms cause vomiting, diarrhoea and lethargy, and affect growth and coat condition.
Cats are infected with tapeworm when grooming and swallowing fleas, and also from eating rodents.
Kittens should be wormed from 3 weeks of age - every 2 weeks until they are 3 months old, then once monthly until they are 6 months old. Thereafter cats should be wormed every 3 months.
The number of tablets required depends on your cat's weight and the brand of tablet, so remember to weigh him/her first and give the correct dose.
RABBITS
Behaviour, rabbits
Rabbits which are not handled regularly or properly are likely to react by biting or kicking their owners. Teach children to pick up their rabbits with adequate support for the hind quarters and to hold them gently but firmly so they don't kick around. Spinal injuries can result from violent kicks.
Lack of mental stimulation when kept in ‘solitary confinement’ in a small hutch (and most hutches sold in pet stores locally are MUCH too small) are likely to lead to behavioural problems. The psychological welfare of rabbits is much improved by keeping them in groups in an outdoor run or as house pets; however in both situations owners should provide them with "bolt-holes" to allow them to escape from potentially stressful situations (especially predators).
Beware that rabbits indoors will find electrical cords to chew on – one rabbit which belongs to one of our vets, has chewed numerous extension cords (one of which had flame burns around it!), computer monitor and speaker cables, playstation controllers, game and phone charger cables, a pile of luggage bags and a set of curtains. Local hardware stores have conduit (corrugated) piping which cords can be threaded through so rabbits can’t chew them. If you are going to keep your rabbit indoors, then you need to make his environment safe (and also to avoid burning your house down! - or at the very least spending a fortune on new cables). House rabbits make very rewarding and sociable pets though, so it can be worth the effort. They can be litter box trained and use cat-flaps.
Dental care, rabbits
We see a large number of rabbits with dental disease. Though some are genetic, most cases could have been prevented by feeding the correct diet.
We do not recommend feeding any more than quarter of a cup of commercial pellets per day to your rabbit - these contain concentrated nutrients and so the animal spends less time foraging and chewing than it would in the wild. Keep them for treats to make your rabbit want to come and see you for handfeeding.
Rabbit’s teeth grow continuously and if not worn down (by chewing) at an equal rate, dental problems are inevitable. In extreme cases, the tooth roots will push back into the orbits (eye sockets), producing painful abscesses, for which the prognosis is grim. Remember, that in the wild - rabbits eat grass!
We recommend a diet containing grass, hay, and vegetables (but not lettuce). Plenty of fresh water should always be available.
Rabbits also like to chew on branches from fruit trees (eg apple trees) which provide not only things to play with, but also exercise and wear for the teeth.
Rabbits need to chew for around 4 hours a day to produce adequate tooth wear (and up to 6 hours for dwarf rabbits, as they have disproportionately large teeth). Overgrown incisors (the front teeth) can be trimmed using a high-speed dental bur or diamond disc - this can be done at the clinic with the rabbit awake but restrained. Trimming with nail clippers is cruel, causes pain, serious damage to the tooth structure and possible tooth root abscesses - it is rare that this form of trimming even produces flat surfaces for the animal to use effectively anyway. Teeth usually shatter in all directions. Unfortunately this practice is still far too common, and I get to clean up the mess it creates! DO NOT use nail clippers to trim your rabbit’s teeth. If you go to another vet, DO NOT let them do it either!!
With long-standing or severe malocclusion of the incisors, it may be better to remove them completely - which then allows the molars (back teeth) to work against each other and wear better. You will have to cut up food for your rabbit afterward, but it is better than having overgrown teeth cutting gums and tongue and forcing the mouth open (meaning molars don’t meet properly and also overgrow).
Molar malocclusion results in sharp spurs on the back teeth which cut the tongue and cheeks and results in the rabbit stopping eating and often slobbering. Discharge from the eyes is often a symptom of dental problems.
Lack of exercise and sunlight also contributes to dental problems, through osteoporosis producing weak jaw bones, and a poor foundation for the tooth roots.
We have special equipment here for performing rabbit dentistry and anaesthesia, and take referrals from local vets for incisor trimming, incisor extractions and molar trimming.
Desexing, rabbits
We advise neutering male rabbits to reduce territorial marking (urine spraying), aggression, and unwanted sexual behaviour (The local kindy rabbit was neutered because it was mounting all the children - creating obvious embarrassment for the teachers!).
Spaying female rabbits not only removes the unwanted pregnancy risk when housed with male rabbits, but also removes the risk of developing uterine adenocarcinomas (cancer) as they get older (this is a common occurrence in middle-late aged females). Though more difficult than a cat spay, they normally recover quickly, and we provide plenty of post-operative pain relief. The surgery is simpler in younger, leaner rabbits, so consider it early.
Mites and Fleas, rabbits
Rabbit mites are called Cheyletiella – commonly referred to as ‘walking dandruff’, as the coat appears to have many small flaky spots in it – you may see them moving if you look hard enough, but they are tiny. The mites cause skin irritation, usually along the back of the animal. Infested animals may have slight hair loss, scales (dandruff), itching and possibly some thickening of the skin. The mites can survive for some days off the host in the environment, and take 3 weeks to complete the egg-larvae-nymph-adult cycle. The mite spreads easily from animal to animal by direct contact or sharing contaminated quarters or grooming supplies. Diagnosis is made by identifying the mite microscopically. Infestations are easily treated with acaricidal products such as Revolution (selamectin). This is applied monthly and since we have started using it, has proven effective and safe (and much less painful than injections!)
If you think your rabbit has mites, book it in to see the vet and we can confirm the disease and calculate the correct dose of treatment to apply.
Rabbits can contract fleas – and Advantage is licensed in NZ for treating rabbits for fleas. Be aware that it only lasts for one week from each application (but one month in cats and dogs). DO NOT use Frontline or Advocate on rabbits! If in doubt ask the clinic staff for advice.
Rabbits
Rabbit Council of New Zealand: www.rabbits-nz.co.nz Information on breeders and clubs in NZ.
www.bunspace.com MySpace for bunnies!
For an excellent article on all aspects of Rabbit care go to: http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&S=0&C=0&A=673
There are many more reliable articles on www.veterinarypartner.com if you put ‘rabbit care’ into the search line.
Vaccinations, rabbit
A vaccine is available to protect your rabbit against Viral Haemorrhagic Disease – a disease caused by the rabbit calicivirus, which rapidly causes death in rabbits of all ages. This disease was introduced illegally into New Zealand several years ago, to control wild rabbits on farmland in the South Island, but has recently been diagnosed in the St Martins area (confirmed by laboratory post-mortem samples), after one rabbit owner lost several of her rabbits to it, and another very recently, when a breeder lost a large number. We suspect there may be larger numbers of deaths; although they probably go undiagnosed when a single rabbit dies at home (the disease is far more noticeable and brought to the attention of the vets, when larger numbers die at the same time). Vaccination is normally given at 10 weeks of age and requires only one injection. However, if you choose to start vaccination earlier than ten weeks, your bunny will require a second booster. We then recommend annual vaccinations to protect against this disease.
GUINEA PIGS
The majority of guinea pigs we see at the clinic present with skin mites – diagnosis and treatment is similar to those for rabbits (see section above on rabbit mites). Guinea pigs seem especially sensitive to mites however, and can scratch large raw areas on their skin with the intense itch they get. Seek advice if your guinea pig appears to have mites.
Guinea Pigs link to guinea pig site.
Veterinary partner care guide: www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&S=0&C=0&A=684
CHINCHILLAS
Veterinary partner care guide: www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&S=0&C=0&A=666
RATS AND MICE
Veterinary partner care guide: www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&S=0&C=0&A=660
RSPCA
RSPCA link to website.
WSPA World Society for the Protection of Animals
|
|
